10th May – Day 33
Callum awoke and immediately asked if he could sit in the red tractor with the big door. So we quickly got dressed and said good morning to all the tractors; a small blue one (can’t remember the make), which I’m not sure even worked any more – left, seemingly, abandoned in one of the many barns on this town farm, a small red Massey Ferguson sat in the main courtyard and a larger, red Massey Ferguson in the walled part of the farm. This place was quite amazing, run by the two brothers Kaes. From what I think I understood from one of the brothers, their surname means ‘cheese’, which he said was ironic as they only produced wine! I asked him about their vignoble (vineyards), which he said were in various locations along the foothills of the Vosges. They make a nice pinot noir and they also produce a rose. The ‘Cave’ was hidden behind double wooden doors, which faced the Place de la Liberte in the old part of Molsheim. Through the doors was an open air courtyard, with two period houses on either side at the front, a roof lined one side under which there were lots of tables that, I’m guessing, would have been used when the restaurant was active. At the other end of the courtyard was the entrance to a three storey barn, which wasn’t in use as far as I could tell, because it was like a junkyard! Large sliding doors at the other end of the barn lead out to a hard-standing area, where we parked Suzab, then beyond to a large walled garden. This walled garden was home to a couple of horses, some goats and sheep and lots of vegetable plots. To the passer by, one would have no idea that any of this existed, which is why France Passion is such a great idea as it enables people to stay in places that would not normally be available. As lovely as it was though, it was a bugger to drive a motor home in and out of!!!
From Molsheim we decided that we wanted to head further north in France and picked out 2 France Passion places that we could drive to, one in Gundershoffen the other in Cleebourg. We headed to the former destination, but upon arrival in the town, it was clear that there were none of the usual France Passion signs giving a handy hint as to where the place might be and we only had very basic directions in the guidebook (1 km after traffic lights, then turn right). We tried all possible permutations of traffic lights and entry directions into the town – with no joy. Eventually we pulled in next to a few shops to try and call the owners, but just got through to their voicemail. Then a man knocked on our window – in a way that suggests he was going to offer some assistance. So we had a stilted conversation about how he knew where this place was. He kindly drew some directions and we went on our way. Either this guy was completely mad or just slightly odd, but his directions didn’t take us to where we needed to go, but fortunately we were now en route to the second France Passion location.
On our way to Cleebourg, we encountered a blocked road, which TomTom did not know about and the diversion signs were less than helpful. We fannied about for 30 minutes working out how to get to the other side of the blocked road and eventually got on our way. As we continued, we began to talk about ‘wild camping’ – the idea that you just pull in wherever you fancy and stay – so we began to keep our eyes peeled for somewhere suitable. We were aware that it is illegal to stop right next to the road, or on private land without the owner’s permission, so we had to reject quite a few possible looking sites. Whilst driving through some woods, we spotted a gravel track leading onto a clearing with a picnic table and bin – fantastic! We’re literally 5 minutes from the France Passion site, but here is an opportunity to be ‘wild’. We drove in.
The spot wasn’t quite as level as we would have liked, as it is not comfortable sleeping in Suzab when she’s on a slope and it makes cooking awkward as well. So I tried to manoeuvre into a better position. That’s when the front wheels began to spin. The dry looking leaves were actually covering quite damp and muddy ground, which did not take too kindly to having a large vehicle driving on them. By this time, I had been driving for quite a long time, we were tired and hungry and this was not something that we had factored in. My attempts to move Suzab were only resulting in more wheel spinning and I was unable to reverse back out the way we came. Without really taking any time to survey the surroundings, I spotted that another track lead down further into the woods into a larger clearing, which I figured I would use to do a 3 point turn, then drive back up forwards and out. Getting down into the clearing was easy. First part of the 3-point turn didn’t go so well, as there were a few more dead logs and branches lying around than I could see from our original location. Lorraine got out to help me perform the second part of the manouevre, however, I didn’t properly communicate my intentions and before I knew it Lorraine was shouting at me to stop reversing. I had stupidly backed Suzab into a tree, using our bikes and the bike rack as a cushion – oops! Okay, I get out to take a look at the damage. Bikes okay, bike rack bent. Not good. Back in the driver’s seat, perform the third part of the 3-point turn. Wheel spin. Can’t reverse. Can’t drive forward. We are properly stuck. Our tempers fray slightly at this point, but we remain fairly levelheaded despite things as they are. Saving graces at this point are that (1) we are stuck in a motor home, all fit and well, with food, water and somewhere to sleep (2) we are on level ground! I don’t entirely relax, but Lorraine remains very calm about the whole thing. We prepare dinner, eat and go to sleep – doing the ‘wild camping’ but not entirely sure how we’ll leave in the morning.
I gave Phil a call (the owner of the vehicle) and explained the situation, saying that we were thinking of trying to obtain the help of a local farmer the next morning. He agreed that was a good course of action, as the breakdown cover wouldn’t cover this situation. Phil told me how to say (in French) that we had got stuck in the mud and he advised that we should be armed with a bottle of wine, to say thanks to whomever we found to help us! Fortunately we had a bottle, bought from the vineyard that we had stayed in a week or so back.
At one point in the evening, we heard a car drive in to the clearing at the entrance to the woods. They pointed their headlights down towards us, but when I opened the door to go and speak to them they drove away. We guessed that this must be a local parking spot for smokers or lovers!
An owl hooted a few times and a few odd sounding creaks came from the woods outside. In my minds eye I pictured a few eerie images from Twin Peaks, but I went to sleep feeling glad that I have never watched the Blair Witch Project.
11th May – Day 34
I am awoken by what sounds like a duck quacking right outside our door, which freaked me out a bit. After re-orienting myself with our surroundings, I guess that it must be a branch scraping against the door – at which point my thoughts suddenly switch and I imagine said branch scratching up the side of Suzab. I check it out and of course it is fine. But this has made me on edge and instead of waking up in a chilled way; I immediately start thinking about getting out of the mud. I start banging around in the van, getting dressed and such like. This doesn’t go down too well with the rest of the household who aren’t even awake yet. I take a deep breath and try and forget about the van while we have breakfast together.
Callum helps me find whatever suitable material we can find on the forest floor to lay in front of the tyres and make a solid surface to drive over. There are some other parts of the route that are really muddy and need covering. Materials consist mainly of twigs, but we do find some nice big bits of bark and even two small planks of wood. We prepare the worst bits of ground and if I am able to get the van off square one and gain enough momentum, we should make it all the way to the top without getting stuck again.
At this point the Gendarmerie (Police) arrive on the scene, hmm….
I wave to them from where I am standing, and they drive further in off the road and into the top part of the clearing; I did worry for a moment that they would drive too far and get stuck as well. We exchange greetings and I explain what happened. We soon switch to Franglais, when the lead officer makes it clear that he speaks English. It is all fairly amicable and they offer to help give us a push, then if that fails they will call on the services of a farmer for us – sorted! They take our passport and my driving licence details, as it turns out that we are actually very close to an Air Force radar base and they have to notify the authorities of any persons found in the vicinity that they have had dealings with; I am assured that we are not in any trouble. They give the thumbs up to the preparations that me and Callum have made to the forest floor and then we get ready to drive out.
First attempt – un, deux, trois – Maintenant!!! Wheel spin… uh oh…
Second attempt – no countdown this time, but I gently ease forward, find traction, then I accelerate harder, I am moving! I guide the van up the grassy track, over the wood and bark that we have laid all the way up to the police van (taking care not to crash into them) – in all about 35 metres I guess. A big relief for us and there are smiles all round. I ask them to stay around to ensure that we are able to get out from the clearing and on to the main road, which we do without a problem this time. However, once we are on the road I realize that I have not taken any photos of the site, which I am slightly disappointed about – but sense prevails and we do not return to re-enact the scene…
We drive into nearby Rott and spot a restaurant. We stop in for drinks and as it is nearly midday, we decide to stay for the Plat du Jour. We pay €6.50 for two courses and is probably one of the best meals we have had out so far, first course was a vegetable terrine, with a dressed salad. Second course was a very succulent beefsteak in a mustard sauce; with a kind of egg pasta (spetzike, I think it was called) that we think must be a german influenced type of food.
Full of good food and buoyed by our successful escape from the woods, we decide to head for Thionville, a large town close to the border of Luxembourg. For the majority of the journey from Rott to Thionville, we drive through on the German side of the border. It is interesting seeing how everything changes and strangely I feel like a foreigner; returning into France feels comforting, like being back home in familiar surroundings. TomTom takes us straight to a site that is right next to a pretty park and close to the town centre. We are on the banks of the river Moselle. We see huge boats (that could well be tankers) moving slowly up and down. On the opposite bank are freight trains that, again, move slowly carrying their cargo – and we hear them rumbing throughout the night.
